Will These Trends Trickle Down from the Runway to Retail?

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Will These Trends Trickle Down from the Runway to Retail?

02/09/2017
EDITED, the fashion retail analytics company, released its trend insights from New York Fashion Week. Oversized silhouettes, a continued focus on embellishment and embroidery, and "tough" fabrics such as patent leather and vinyl-like materials are expected to influence fashion in the months ahead.

1. Super-Size me
"Designers will explore proportion and scale to its fullest. We've seen wide leg pants increase in luxury and premium retail by 32 percent in the last three months. Oversized outerwear has been one of Fall 2016's biggest trends, with seasonal bestsellers from Burberry, Vetements x Canada Goose and Yeezy.

"Consumers have now warmed up to a new silhouette, giving designers carte blanche to be more dramatic than ever before. Cue super-wide pants, enormous knitwear, padded outerwear, loose suiting and yes, more of those crazily structural sleeves," says Katie Smith, senior retail analyst at EDITED.

2. Women's marches on runways
"We're seeing energy and creativity with the women's movement this year. It goes from the humor, passion and innovation in campaigns and slogans seen at marches or across social media. Expect the current discourse on gender to make it onto the runways in all four fashion capitals - think tough looking, practical heeled boots, and dresses made for the wearer rather than the observer.

"The direct parallel is the 1960s wave of feminism, so there will be military touches in fastenings, patches and badges - possibly even reworked camouflage. And of course, those slogans, an important consumer trend for 2017, have already seen a 48 percent increase in the last three months compared to the same period a year ago," Smith says.

3. An explosion in needlework
"In Fall 2016 we saw some interesting styles such as patchwork, metallics, and sequins on denim and embroidery on ankle boots. This will become even bolder for Fall 2017, working its way up to outerwear and onto accessories," she continues. "Embellished and embroidered styles are up 53 percent and jackets by 49 percent this February compared to new arrivals for Fall 2016. For Fall, swap this out for elaborate metallic embroidery in a winter palette that will work great on heavier fabrics such as velvet and leather with appliques of insects, creatures, webs and stars for a darker gothic look."

4. Purses with purpose
"Fall 2016's obsession of minaudiere bags shows signs of a slowdown. This season, the bigger the better. On the Spring runways, Marni presented huge drawstring beach sacks while Victoria Beckham and CÉline carry over the oversized idea in a more formal way with stiffer fabrics and more linear shapes. Thanks to their newness, oversized shapes offer great commercial potential for Fall, especially when interpreted in round, structureless shapes in butter-soft leathers.

"Another potential hit for the season will be mammoth clutches and duffel bags. In 2017, brands [that] will experiment with innovative technologies will earn consumers' undivided attention. Rebecca Minkoff, who is planning to have all handbags equipped with smart technology as of this summer, is onto a good thing."

5. Tough fabrics
"Patent leather and vinyl-effect apparel is a trend we have begun to see trickle through in retailers' new season assortments. It was fed down from recent runway seasons where glossy leathers, PVC and high shine apparel with a kinky suggestion made a small but significant appearance. These tough fabrics have seen a 35 percent climb in new arrivals from Sept - Nov 2016 compared to the year before, suggesting they are more suited for the fall season.

"Forming key pieces on the market now are Carven's red vinyl trench, 3.1 Philip Lim vinyl and lace skirt and Anthony Vaccarello's lace up vinyl mini. This combination of fabrics feels gothy, subcultural and fascinating enough to spark a whole story for the new season."